A MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR OR BRAHMS AND LISZT IN LIVERPOOL

For some time now I have always wanted to visit The Philharmonic Dining Rooms in Liverpool. This fantastic show pub features in the book , Britain's Best Real Heritage Pubs. Since I read the book about 2 years ago this visit has been on my bucket list. 

Recently Transpennine had their annual Club 55 offer on , to travel anywhere on their network in England for £29 return. So a trip with Mrs Ken was booked from the North East to Liverpool, with an overnighter near the World Heritage Site, Albert Dock. By a sheer coincidence (honest) our hotel was 2 minutes walk from Liverpool's only micro pub- The Baltic Fleet.
 
Now those that read the Good Beer Guide (GBG) regularly will know that there are only 5 pubs in the UK that have featured in every issue of the guide. Two are in London, one near Cambridge, one in Dorset and one in Liverpool - The Roscoe Head. By chance , you walk past the Roscoe to get to the Philly. So that forms the basis of a pub crawl.

But first food. The Lime Kiln, a Wetherspoons, is a regular entry in the GBG. It was on the way and was a good choice with ten handpulls and, more importantly, 2 stouts available. I reckon Scousers must like their dark beers. Respect.  So after a hot curry and a couple of well kept stouts, it was off to the Philly.

Took this picture the next morning on way to train

By this time it was dark but the pub is huge and not difficult to miss. The place is actually jaw dropping. You are confronted by ornate plasterwork, stained glass, engraved copper panels and mosaics. 


Two small snugs are called Brahms and Liszt

Entrance to the Grande Lounge

in between the splendid Grande Lounge. Sitting in this room on a Chesterfield sofa, I imagined it to be a gentleman's club, sitting reading the Times and supping a port. I was half expecting Sherlock Holmes to walk in, until Mrs Ken reminded me he was not a real person. Doh !

I had read about the gents so paid a visit  , which did not disappoint ( see picture). Must be the best gents loo in the country,

Unfortunately the beer quality did not match the quality of the pub. My first pint (Stewart's 80/-) was on the turn and my alternative was not chilled.  So after 1 pint, and having to prise the wife off the chesterfield, it was down the street to the Roscoe Head.

It was reported ** about two years ago that this local had an uncertain future, having being sold to another pubco, which was threatening it with closure and conversion. A campaign and petition has so far kept the place open but for how long ? I asked the barmaid about this who confirmed the threat was still there. 

She was very impressed that we were interested." Have you come all the way from Newcastle just to visit us ?"
"Er Sunderland, do you mind ?" 

The Bell Push !!

Again a great pub with 6 handpulls and a bell push. I pointed this out to the wife, who said with female logic " why have one when its next to the bar servery ?" Good point. Anyone, a cosy warm  pub where everyone seemed to be drinking real ale. A nice comfortable atmosphere.

By now it was getting on and I was interested in finding the Baltic before we crashed out. So it was a lengthy walk through back streets down to Albert Dock and our last pub. I have never seen a pub  with so many doors. I lost count after four. Needless to say the entrance would be the fourth one we tried. 

A fairly quiet place that has a micro brewery ( Wapping Brewery) in the cellar. They used to brew 5 beers but are now down to 1, called Summer Ale and available all year round. Given that it didnt have far to travel, this was a very well kept drink to finish off the evening with.

Reflecting on the four pubs I have reached the following conclusion.

Best pub in order of beer quality  - Lime Kiln, Baltic Fleet, Roscoe Head, Philharmonic
Best pub in order of interior - Philharmonic, Roscoe Head, Baltic Fleet, Lime Kiln.

As you would expect in a large city, there are many boozers to chose from. If you haven't been, I would thoroughly recommend it but do your research. 

This goes in my book as a great drinking city, alongside Glasgow, Newcastle,  Manchester and Durham. 

To read more about the Philly, follow this link :-

Philharmonic Dining Rooms 

**This is from the Liverpool Echo about the Roscoe Head

Roscoe Head Campaign