We recently had a day out in Wensleydale in North Yorkshire, spending a couple of hours at the scenic Aysgarth Falls. Rather than have a drink in one of the local pubs we decided to drive up onto the moors and call in to the Tan Hill Inn some 22 miles away.
Now this 17th century inn is famous for being the highest pub in the UK. It is literally in the middle of nowhere. It has also featured in a national double glazing advertisement campaign, and was snowed in a couple of winters ago causing , I imagine, one hell of a lock in !
What isn't widely known is an event that happened in 1973 that I will always remember.
Back then I used to go fell walking about once a month with some mates. Typically, we would drive to a point about 2 hours from a pub, park up, walk to the pub, have a few beers then stagger back to the car. On this fateful day we decided to walk part of the Pennine Way, covering about 8 miles from Bowes in County Durham to the Tan Hill Inn.
Now you have to appreciate in those days, there was no internet, social media, mobile phones and only three TV channels with limited news output. These were also the days of restricted opening hours, with pubs generally closing at 3pm and reopening at 6pm.
We timed it to get to the pub for about noon, and had the foresight to pack sandwiches. There is always a sense of anticipation when nearing a pub, something that stays with me to this day. So following the map, we trudged over the moors towards Tan Hill. The nearer we got the more alarmed we became as we couldn't see it anywhere. Then we rounded a rocky outcrop and the truth dawned. The bloody thing had BURNT DOWN !!.
We flopped down against a dry stone wall , utterly despondent and swearing profusely. We had no choice but to eat our sarnies and headed back to the car, sober !!
Fast forward to the present. Driving up from Wensleydale you cross the wild moors of Buttertubs Pass and Stonesdale till the pub comes into view on the horizon. Although sunny and warm, nothing prepared us for the howling gale when we opened the car doors.The Inn sign was swinging and creaking like a scene from Jamaica Inn or Poldark.
There are several rooms inside either side of the central bar. Six handpulls are normally in use, mostly serving beers from Theakstons ( Lightfoot and Old Peculier ) and Black Sheep ( Riggwelter and Black Sheep Special ). I went straight for the Old Peculier.
There is something deeply satisfying about sitting in an old comfortable armchair in this old inn, drinking this famous old ale.
Several photographs adorn the walls, mostly about the pub's links to the mining days, and the snow drifts. Actually on the latter, the pub has its own snow mobile, with the words Old Peculier emblazoned across the front. I noticed there was no reference to the 1973 fire. The guy behind the bar was too busy to ask and besides, too young to remember.
After trying some Black Sheep Special Ale , we reluctantly got up to leave. " Mind the step" said Mrs Ken , so I immediately banged my head on the low doorway.
When we arrived home I checked the fire event on the pub' s website....nothing. There is only a brief mention in an old Yorkshire Post article which can be seen by scrolling halfway down the attached article.
The pub has a customer feedback form so that's getting filled in after I've posted this.
One final thing. The pub were pushing a new beer by Theakstons called Peculier IPA. I quickly discovered it was keg so didn't bother. Have just checked , its a dark pale ale. Work that one out.
Interesting that the 1973 fire is featured in Neil Hansons Inn at the Top book..
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